An end to an infuriating ethernet bug!

So for the past few weeks, I’ve been experiencing an infuriating bug with my ethernet connection and OSX. The short, short version, is that booting into windows break ethernet in OSX, leaving ethernet constantly with a self-assigned ip. No matter of configuration would change this. I could manually setup the IP config, release/renew dhcp, setup manual IP settings, disable the connection, remove the connection entirely, reboot, and set it up again, etc., etc., etc.

Only one thing would work, physically pulling the power cord from the computer.

Needless to say it’s a bit annoying to have to pull the plug every time you want to reboot from one OS to another.

Well, tonight I think I’ve finally found a solution!

I dug around the intel ethernet driver config options on windows, and in addition to “Wake on Magic Packet” (which has always been there, and I use for wake-on-lan) I found the following settings:

  • Wake on Pattern Match
  • Wake on Magic Packet from Power Off State
  • Wake on Link Settings

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So I disabled those settings, and ethernet is once again working fine from a normal/hot reboot! I’ll try them all one by one later, but I suspect it’s the “Power Off State” setting that was causing the issue.

23 October, 2014 – UPDATE: So I did some more isolation testing, and indeed it’s only the ‘Wake on Magic Packet from Power Off’ setting that needs to be disabled, the other two don’t affect my ethernet connection in OSX.

Added another SSDT for 4790k

So I’ve slowly started to test the waters with overclocking my 4790k, right now it seems like I got a pretty mediocre chip, but it’s hard to really know for sure while I’m using the iGPU, and being able to disable it if I can ever actually afford a dedicated GPU should drop my CPU temps by 10 degrees C or maybe even a bit more. Granted that also disables intel quicksync, but I’m not really sure there’s much use for that on a Hackintosh, or with the mediocre amount of gaming I do in Windows.

Anyway, for day-to-day right now I’m running at 4.5Ghz (woohoo, a whole 100 extra Mhz!) since OCCT (AVX Linpack, or prime95 large fft) will bring my CPU to 85-90 degrees at stock speeds, in just 1-2 minutes. Granted, those kinds of 100% AVX workloads are incredibly unrealistic (Asus ROG Realbench for example my CPU will pass 60-90 minute stress test, at 4.5Ghz, around 75-80 degrees.)

Now, I don’t particularly care about overclocking, the stock 4.4Ghz turbo is pretty awesome as-is, but I’m a nerd and a tinkerer, so it’s always fun to see just how things work.

Anyway, I’ve uploaded an SSDT for 4.5Ghz turbo to my Yosemite/10.10 page, and as I keep pushing the chip higher, I’ll upload any newer SSDT’s there too.

Yosemite guide added

Just another quick post, I’ve added a new “Upgrade” guide/page for anyone using the same hackintosh hardware/setup as me: http://girlintroverted.wordpress.com/devils-canyon-asus-rog-z87-and-osx-10-10

I’ll be updating the page/guide over the coming weeks, but for now, time to go play with the new Android 5.0 preview image on my Nexus 5!

Yosemite Success!

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Well, just a quick post for now that the update to OS X 10.10/Yosemite went well.

I’ll update my main hackintosh page asap with new steps, new config.plist downloads, etc., but for anyone who’s used my guide and just can’t wait, here’s a quick list of what you need to do for a smooth upgrade.

EDIT: 17 October, 2014 – Anyone using my setup should see my upgrade page/guide here before upgrading to 10.10 “Yosemite”

I’ll expand on all of this when I’m done with dinner and have had a bit more time to double check that everything is still working right. I’m also trying to find a way to patch the audio layout files to allow for “ambient noise reduction” to be used with the front-panel mic input jack, will definitely update when I figure that out.

EDIT: I’ll update all my guides tomorrow (Oct. 17th) I’ve run into an intermittent/weird issue with audio and just don’t have the energy or time to finish debugging it tonight.

A quick mod for my FT03-Mini

So a quick tip for anyone that might be interested in using the Silverstone FT03-Mini for their mITX build, you may want to file/sand down the inside lip on the plastic top/cover near the cable-routing cutout.

To expand on this for anyone that doesn’t have the case already, there’s a minor issue with the I/O panel cable routing, so if you have more than 3-4 cables plugged in to your motherboard ports (or those cables are really thick, e.g. dual-link DVI) then you might have an issue with the top plastic panel not sitting flush when attached, or the downward pressure on the cables, from that lip, slightly pushing the back aluminum panel away.

After sanding down the lip to enlarge the opening, both issues are gone!

And what’s the next Step on my modding list? Paint/dye all the white plastic parts black for a clean, “apple-esque” silver & black look.

OSX volume control hack for Poker 2

So this is a quick little tip/trick for anyone out there using a Poker 2 keyboard with Mac OS X, to add granular volume control from the keyboards PN layer. Mac OS X has long allowed users to increase/decrease system volume in 1/4 steps by holding down the Shift and Option keys when you press volume up/down keys on your keyboard.

The Poker 2 however buries volume down, up (and mute too, on the comma key) under the function layer on the ‘N’ and ‘M’ keys. So to use the granular control, you need to press 4 keys at the same time: FN + Shift + Option + N/M

To make this easier, we can program PN+N and PN+M to the granular controls:

  1. Enter programming mode by pressing FN+R.Ctrl
  2. Press the key you want to Program (e.g. N or M) only once
  3. Press the key combination you want to send when you press the key (e.g. Shift, Option, FN, N)
  4. Press ‘PN’ to save the programming
  5. Repeat with the second key
  6. Exit programming mode by pressing FN+R.Ctrl again

Now if you want the normal volume control steps, you press ‘FN+N’ for down, and ‘FN+M’ for up, but if you want the more granular 1/4 steps, you use ‘PN+N’ and ‘PN+M’

I’ve also programmed ‘PN+comma’ to another mute key, to make sure mute/unmute still works, even if I accidentally hit the PN key instead of FN.